There was a time and a place where the Florida sun fell softly not on strip malls and cookie-cutter suburbs but on stands of scrub oak and citrus groves. Where roads were two narrow lanes. Where people waved when you passed by and the food was simple and southern. The sounds – when there were sounds – were of wind snaking through slash pines or mocking birds masquerading as scrub jays or river crows. The time may be past, but that place still exists. Just west of Orlando, Lake County still marches to a slower beat. The asphalt ripples across the tops of ancient sand dunes piled up here when this was the coastline of a very small landmass. There are country stores that sell homemade pies, cigarettes and RC Cola. Lakeside jook joints frequented by good old boys and girls knocking back Budweisers. And while the music is more likely to be Jimmy Buffett than Little Jimmy Dickens, the vibe is much the same. Sure, you can see it all from behind the windows of your SUV or sports sedan, but the best way to experience it is to throw your leg over a half-ton of American iron, slap your backside into the saddle and ride – away from the megalopolis and into a less complicated way of life. This is the real weekend in the country, Florida style.

Friday: Pick up your mount at Orlando Harley-Davidson and head up I-4. Enjoy the envious stares of homebound commuters trapped in their isolating tin capsules. Exit at SR 46 in Heathrow. In less than 15 minutes, you’re on a two-lane with trees on both sides. The first stop comes before you cross the Wekiva River. Turn into Wilson’s Landing Park, and head for the water. The blacktop ends a quarter-mile in and you’re on a hard-packed sand road with a split-rail fence alongside. Park the bikes at the pavilion and walk down to the water. You’re unlikely to see anyone, even though this is 10 minutes from Heathrow. The river is wide, with blankets of water lillies extending out from the banks. Breathe deeply. When you’re ready for the road again, go west on SR 46 right through Mount Dora where you’ll circle around the north side of Lake Beauclair and Lake Dora into Tavares where you pick up SR 19. Go south, and as soon as you leave town, you’re into the hill country. SR 19 crosses Little Lake Harris on a bridge that looks like a miniature version of the Seven Mile Bridge in the Keys. There’s water on both sides and a marina with a couple of dozen boats bobbing at the docks to your right. To the left, all you see is open water bordered by oaks. Once you cross the bridge, you’re in Howey-in-the-Hills, and you can overnight in comfort at the Mission Inn Resort & Club (see page 26). Saturday: Have breakfast at the Yalaha Bakery on CR 48 just 10 minutes north of the Mission Inn. The two-story building is painted yellow and has a small, walled courtyard where you can enjoy pastries picked from a 40-foot glass-front display case. On most weekends, packs of bicyclists stop by to refuel between round trips up and down the surrounding hills. The choice of which way to go from here is up to you. The web of county roads that cosset the lakes – Harris, Eustis and Griffin to the north, Apopka to the east, and Minneola and Louisa to the south – run over the hilliest and most rural terrain in Central Florida. The remnants of orange groves, and a few producing ones, carpet hillsides. Pines and palms are scattered like sentinels on sandy hilltops. Taking Buckhill Road south from Howey-in-the-Hills will bring you to CR 455 – a scenic sweep – until it connects with CR 561 which crosses up and over Sugarloaf Mountain. At a whopping 312 feet, it’s the highest point in peninsular Florida. The highest point in the state is actually 345 feet, about 10 miles from the Alabama border. The roads twist around the mountain with steep uphills and downhills. Dozens of side roads lead off the main track. Some are well paved and maintained, others turn to gravel or sand after a few hundred yards. If you get as far as Clermont, the 226-foot Citrus Tower on Highway 27 provides a panoramic view of the area. Built atop a hill, its tallest antenna reaches 500 feet above sea level. No problems finding it – just head toward Clermont and look up. There are plenty of choices for lunch: The Yalaha Bakery also serves sandwiches, but if you’re riding the Hog, you should be eating hog, too. Sugarboo’s (1305 North Grandview, Mount Dora) is an in-town favorite, and there’s a branch of Bubbalou’s in Apopka (1701 Rock Springs Rd.). Instead of riding into town, though, check out BC’s General Store in Yalaha. Owner Betty Crenshaw has operated the corner grocery for the past 28 years. This is classic Cracker country. Housed in a heavily modified frame house, the long, narrow space has “necessaries” on both sides. Betty herself is usually behind the counter with various species of taxidermied fish – bream, crappie, bass – hovering on the wall behind her. Snapshots of friends and family are tacked up in between. Coffee? There is none: “I was pouring out more than I sold so I quit making it,” she says. “I got beer. I never pour out beer.” The former Leesburg High School teacher quit her day job to open the store because she couldn’t find any decent barbecue: “I’m from Tennessee, and I can’t live without my barbecue.” The extended front porch of the establishment now houses two large, well-weathered barrel smokers and the mouth-watering aroma of pig wafts out across the parking lot. Now for the big question: Mustard based or tomato-based? “We’ve got four sauces: King’s [mustard and vinegar] and then my own that comes in mild, hot and hellfire – that’s for these fellas who come in here and say we can’t make it hot enough for them. The hellfire will light you up,” she says. The smoked pig parts are carried to the back of the store and chopped right when you order at the small counter. Pick your pork, pick your sauce, and it’s all good – lean, smoky and succulent. Late afternoon is the best time to hit the Minneola Inn. The old Cracker-style, two-story sits right on Lake Minneola (Washington Street at Main Avenue, Minneola).

You can stay the night, if you want, in one of the nicely restored guest rooms. Real heart pine floors softened with Oriental carpets and Victorian floral print fabrics impart an authentic grandmas-house vibe. The real action, however, is out back at the Tiki Bar overlooking the lake. It’s the local watering hole and has anything you could want, as long as it’s bar food or beer. There’s Yuengling, Red Stripe, Corona, Guinness, Miller Lite and every variety of Budweiser it makes. The chili cheese dog is especially tasty, although others swear by the half-pound burgers. Sunday: Sleep in. Get up late, pack the bikes and head back the way you came. The best way to get reacclimated is to ride into Mount Dora and spend the morning poking around the shops that spread out along the streets bordering the city’s Donnelly Park. This would be a good time to hit Sugarboo’s, or if you’d prefer a wider range of choices, Pisces Rising on 4th Avenue serves up salads, fish and pasta dishes with live acoustic music in a casual, relaxed atmosphere. How to rent a bike: Winter is the best time to ride. Cooler weather makes wearing leather and long pants comfortable, and it’s typically dry except when the occasional cool front pushes through. Because Central Florida is one of the top motorcycling destinations – Bike Week is approaching late February – there are several area sources that rent Harley-Davidsons. Orlando Harley-Davidson has three locations in the metro area and a large fleet of rentals including classics such as Softails and Sportsters, as well as newer models like the high-tech VRSC, the Dyna and full-dress touring bikes with saddlebags and second seats. For full details, visit orlandoharley.com, but the terms are basically the same as renting a car, plus you need a motorcycle license and must wear closed-toe shoes. Rates start at $99 a day, and special packages and one-way rentals are available.