Review - Change for the Better at Hue

Hue Restaurant, the popular dining and drinking establishment on the corner of Central Boulevard and Summerlin Avenue, is now in its 10th year. Hard to believe, isn’t it?

When Hue first opened in early 2002 it was one of the most anticipated restaurants of the year and became an instant hit among hip urbanites. Still, it had some issues that kept it from being as good as it should have been, given the hype.

The name itself was a bit confusing. Some people pronounced  it hyoo and some pronounced it hway. The latter was a good guess given the menu, which seemed to focus on Asian-style dishes. However, the unofficial mix of styles and themes, none of which blended, fused or projected very well, prevented the restaurant from establishing a solid culinary identity. So change was inevitable.

The most positive change thus far? Hue now has an executive chef. Eduardo Remusat, a native of Brazil, brings something the restaurant has lacked since Day One: a personality with whom the guests can interact and identify. Blame it on our Food Network culture, but almost all of the top restaurants in Central Florida have a recognizable chef attached.

Of course the chef has to be more than a figurehead, and Remusat is showing that he has a talent for creative cuisine firmly rooted in the basics.

I sampled three of the appetizers, or small plates, as they’re listed on Hue’s new menu. The tuna tartare was balanced atop a firm-tender slice of avocado and spiced with just a drop of Sriricha sauce (not all the Asian touches have been removed).

“Crispy oyster” was a big fat one with a light jacket, beautifully fried and topped with jicama slaw. Octopus ceviche, perhaps an influence of Remusat’s homeland, featured lightly grilled and tender pieces of octopus with a pleasant bit of chewiness decorated with thin slices of watermelon radish.

Remusat gives as much attention to the appearance of the food as to the taste. It always seemed as though the standard garnish of the old Hue kitchen was to squirt some brown balsamic vinegar onto the plate.

I also sampled a high-stacked salad of arugula and spinach with tangy bits of feta cheese buried within. The leaves were dressed in a light vinaigrette, and the plate was decorated with balsamic vinegar. (Well, I suppose they had some left over and had to use it somewhere.)

I liked the grilled hanger steak entrée, topped with a coarsely chopped churrasco vinaigrette. It was served atop mashed potatoes infused with tomatoes and herbs, and accompanied by sautéed mushrooms and spinach.

I also had the duck breast with cranberry reduction, served with a risotto flavored with butternut squash and amaretto. The duck was quite good, but I could have made a meal of the risotto alone.

Remusat’s training is as a pastry chef, so he is attuned to the dessert list. Best of the desserts I sampled was the red velvet cheesecake, which is made in-house. It was sufficiently velvety in texture and rich in flavor.

By the way, fans of a good bread basket will be delighted to know that Hue has done away with the wontons and added an honest-to-God breadbasket with ciabatta, focaccia and wafer bread. And real butter, too!

The space has undergone a renovation, as well. The bar is still the focal point, taking up the large center space with two dining “wings” to either side. The walls have been brightened and the artwork hanging on them is more colorful. Even on the outside, the fabric that surrounds the corner-wrapping patio has switched from black to a lighter, um, hue.

It’s all still very hip and urban, but also modernized to reflect the changes in the downtown area. When Hue first opened, it was pretty much the only place of its kind for young downtowners. Now, with no fewer than three new restaurants set to open within one block in the next few months, the area will have many more opportunities.

Hue’s redo will give the veteran restaurant more than a chance to compete with the young ‘uns.

The tasty grilled hanger steak is topped with a coarsely chopped churrasco vinaigrette and served atop mashed potatoes infused with tomatoes and herbs.

The duck breast with cranberry reduction is served with butternut squash and amaretto. The duck is delightful, but the risotto alone could make a meal.

Hue

Where: 629 E. Central Blvd., Orlando
When: lunch and dinner daily, brunch on Sunday
How much: $$$
Where to call: 407-849-1800   - Scott Joseph