Review - Creative Cocina 214 is Tex-Mex, With No Apologies

by Scott Joseph

Here’s one of the things I like about Cocina 214: It doesn’t advertise itself as authentic Mexican, as many of its ilk erroneously do, and it doesn’t make apologies for being Tex-Mex. Yes, the eatery’s Web site describes it as “a contemporary Mexican kitchen,” but adds that the offerings are “creative, gourmet interpretations of traditional Mexican and Tex-Mex favorites.”

Another thing I like about Cocina 214 – the 214 is the area code for Dallas – is the atmosphere. It occupies the former Apenberry’s space, which is open and expansive. The floor is an attractive stained concrete with a root beer sort of mottle, accented by complementary colored carpet in some areas. The main dining, with seating at free-standing tables and banquettes, sits beneath a multileveled dropped ceiling.

There’s also a food bar, with a view into the kitchen, and a spacious covered patio, where doggies are welcome. A bar and lounge with a separate entrance sits a half-level above the dining room.

I also like the food that I sampled on my two visits. Everything had a freshness factor that stood out. I especially appreciated the bit of heat in the salsa, which was served with a basket of chips.

The only disappointment was the xochitl (SOH-chee-til) soup. Xochitl means flower, but this was a chicken-broth soup with avocado, pico de gallo and cheese. However, the broth had a fatty mouth feel and tasted more beeflike than chickenlike. That greasiness detracted from any positive aspects of the soup.

But that was the only negative. I especially liked the huevos rancheros I had on a brunch visit. Two perfectly fried eggs were served on compact corn tortillas and topped with a bit of melted queso blanco and red rancheros sauce. (The menu said guacamole, but I don’t recall seeing any. It wasn’t missed, either.) The long plate – which glided across the wooden table every time I tried to cut something; I finally had to place a napkin under it – was bookended with red Mexican rice and black beans.

On an evening visit I had the carnitas tacos, which featured braised pork, a bit of orange zest and candied onions distributed among three corn tortillas. A bit of fresh cilantro helped liven it up.

My friend had the carne asada, a marinated skirt steak, perfectly grilled to medium-rare, served over sautéed vegetables and accompanied by a tangy chimichurri salsa. Delicious. And at $19, one of the restaurant’s most expensive items. My carnitas and huevos rancheros were $10 each. It’s a very reasonably priced menu.

Service was friendly, but lacked focus and polish. It didn’t seem as though everyone was working from the same training manual (assuming there is one). Overall, though, Cocina 214 is a good restaurant, and I like adding a Tex-Mex flavor to the Park Avenue lineup.

Cocina 214
Where: 151 Welbourne Avenue East, Winter Park
When: lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, brunch on Saturday and Sunday
How much: $$
Where to call: 407-790-7997

Photo: Allan Jay Images