Review - There’s Much More to Jack’s Place Than Just a Portrait Gallery

By Scott Joseph

Some things haven’t changed at Jack’sPlace, a tourist-corridor steakhouse I first reviewed 19 years ago. It’s still owned by hotelier extraordinaire Harris Rosen, who named it for his father. And its walls are still covered with autographed celebrity caricatures, all of which were drawn by the elder Rosen when he was employed as a safety engineer at New York’s Waldorf Astoria.

Jack dashed off the drawings whenever he would spot a luminary visiting the hotel. And there were obviously a lot of luminaries; the collection of signed caricatures is said to be the largest of its kind in the world, larger, even, than you’ll find at iconic Sardi’s.

So I’m glad that aspect of Jack’s Place hasn’t changed. Its menu, however, has been revamped and refreshed by Chef Michael McMullen. While the mein remains that of a steakhouse, there’s more variety and the quality of the food, even of the steaks, has improved greatly.

I had a chance to sample a number of the new items, and I was impressed. Perhaps the most aptly named new entry is “Jack’s Best,” a bisque of Bering Sea king crab and corn. It had a velvety smooth texture with little crunches of corn, and a richness in the mouth that was delightful. McMullen is also featuring an appetizer of spicy shrimp and grits, with a bit of cayenne pepper sauce and Gorgonzola in the grits.

Other additions include rack of lamb, glazed with horseradish and maple mustard to complement the soft gaminess of the meat, and a veal chop, perfectly cooked and wonderful in its simplicity.

Jack’s isn’t all meat, however. There’s also a terrific new sea bass entrée, baked on a cedar plank and graced with essence of white truffle and lemon with just a touch of thyme. There’s even a vegetarian option of ratatouille with herbed cheese in phyllo dough.

Service was professional and courteous on my visit. The ambience of the room is upscale, with white tablecloths and dramatic lighting touches. It would be nice to see the delightful drawings better lit, though.

Back in 1992 I wrote that the caricature collection was the best thing Jack’s Place had going for it, and that I hoped the food would get better. It took a while, but it’s there. I’ll definitely recommend it from now on.

Jack’s Place
Where: Rosen Plaza, 9700 International Drive, Orlando
When: Dinner daily
How much: $$$
Where to call: 407-996-1787

Photos: Greg Johnston